Category: Uncategorized

Stratford on the Avon

Shakespeare’s 600 year
anniversary

Special Menu determined
when making reservations
by phone. Limited seating

San Miguel

Hafez tomb

Shiraz is known as the city of poets, literature, wine and flowers.

 It is also considered by many Iranians to be the city of gardens, due to the many gardens and fruit trees that can be seen in the city.

The most celebrated Persian poet is Hafez. Born in Shiraz in 1315 he never left the city. Nearly every house in Iran has a copy of his poems.

Hafez tomb

In the open pavillion behind the tomb are panels with excerpts from Hafez’s poetry. Our guide read a portion of one of his favorite poems. Wonderful to hear!

Hafez

Saadi is another great Persian poet and philosopher. In Shiraz he wrote his two major works, Golestan (Garden of Roses) and Boostan (The Orchard). He was a great traveler, wandering from the Middle East and Africa to India. His travel experiences are mentioned throughout his writings.

Shiraz

The Eram Garden, meaning Heaven’s Garden, is one of the most famous in Iran. Shiraz University has turned it into a Botanical Garden with beautiful flowers, cypress trees, orange and persimmon trees. A three story pavillion is part of the garden and is now a museum showing the history of the garden.

Eram Gardens

We were warmly welcomed by a girl’s school on a field trip.  They waved, said “hello”, and “we love America and Americans”.

Girl’s School Field Trip

Just for fun we posed in front of the citadel looking like Persian royalty.

John & Sandy posing

We were able to enjoy the park area around the citadel, but the interiors are currently being restored.

Citadel of Karim Khan

Persepolis

This was one of the highlights of our visit to Iran!   What was Persepolis? It was the capital of the Persian Empire, built in 515 B.C. by Darius the Great. During a 60 year period, Darius brought cedar from Lebanon, other precious woods, stone and gold imported from distant provinces to embellish the city. It became known as “One of the Wonders of the Ancient World”. In 330 B.C. it was captured by Alexander the Great and burned to the ground.

The highest level of artist and architectural design was demanded by Darius. This entrance is an example – a double staircase with 6 inch steps which allowed horses to ride up to the stone terrace which is 30 feet above the plain below. The magnificent staircase led to the “Gate of All Nations”.

entrance

This “Gate of Nations” is 82 feet tall with 4 columns, opens onto a great stone terrace, constructed of dark gray stone polished to a marble-like surface. Winged bull figures were symbols of the Assyrian Empire. They are 15 feet tall. Everyone had their  photos taken here. Most impressive!

Persepolis

Sunglasses, hats were necessary for protection from the sun and heat. Pictures came back with bad “squinty (is that a word?) eyes” or better with sunglasses.

Persepolis with sunglasses, a hat and all white clothing

Scholars believe that the emperor never lived in Persepolis but used it exclusively during new-year rituals in the spring, “NOWRUZ”. Delgations came from all over the empire to present precious gifts to their mighty King for this celebration. These frieze statues are showing the Persian and Median noblemen.

Persepolis view

We found Persepolis be very similar to the Roman Forum and the Greek Parthenon in Athens.  It is among the world’s greatest archaeolgical sites.

excavations

Pink Mosque

Early morning visits to the Nasir-al-Mulk Mosque give the best views of the sun through its stained glass windows! We stayed long enough to see the colors change and become muted as the sun moved.

They also call this the “Pink Mosque” because of the beautiful interior pink colored tiles.

Pink Mosque

It was hard to stop taking photos of the ceilings, the walls, the windows. All you heard was click, click, click in the very quiet mosque.

rugs, arches, and windows

Our next mosque in Shriaz was Vakil Mosque, built in 1751-1773 and currently closed for a major restoration project.

Shiraz Vakil Mosque

The size of the complex is overwhelming. It covers 2 acres of land!  The entrance behind John is 75 feet high and covered with traditional floral tiles.

Vakil Mosque

Vakli Mosque ceiling

The Shabestan Prayer Hall of Vakil is the most dramatic hallway we saw in any mosque! The arches and pillars are amazing!

Hammam-e Vakil has recently become a Persian Bath Museum. It’s life-sized models depict typcial bathing acitivities from 400 years ago.

Hammam-e Vakil

Just like today’s spas, there was a menu of choices from massages, beard trimming and shaving, shampoos and scrubs.

vaulted ceilings

Men would have relaxed here in beautifully decorated rooms after taking a bath in the heat room.

hammam

Vakil Bazaar is the third part of Shiraz’s Vakil historic complex. It’s the best place to buy all kinds of  Persian rugs, spices, copper handicrafts and antiques.

Vakil Bazaar

These metal/tin plates were made in many shades of blue and in every shape and size. A popular present to bring home from Shiraz!

shopping

Shah-e-Cheragh is one of the most beautiful mosques and an important Shia Muslim pilgrimage center of the city of Shiraz. 

It is mausoleum for 2 sons of Musa al-Kadhim who were persecuted.  The millions of pieces of colored glass give it the name of “Mirror Mosque.”

Mirror Mosque

Fin Garden

Four miles outside of Kashan is the World Heritage Site, Bagh-e-Fin Garden. A classic Persian Garden, it is full of cypress trees and beds of beautiful flowers.

In addition to the trees and flowers, you will find a hammam bath house complex, a prayer room, a museum and a 2 story pool house.

Fin Garden pool house

The biggest surprise of the gardens are the number of water features. For being in the middle of a desert, the amount of water feels so cool and refreshing.

Fin garden

Built in 1590, the nearby spring on the hillside behind the garden, allows for many water features without any hydralic pumps!

Fin Garden

Kashan’s Rose Festival is celebrated from early May until the middle of June. The most fragrant, pink “Mohammadi Roses” are picked during these weeks.

Rosewater is a 2,500 year Kashan tradition.  Roses are boiled in special pots and distilled. The water is collected in special, beautiful containers.

John distilling rosewater

The fragrance of rose perfume is most popular among Muslims. Many of us bought small bottles to bring home as gifts.  Rosewater is also used in many baking recipes throughout the Middle East. We all tasted a little rosewater but decided you needed to acquire a taste for it.  Perhaps some rose hip tea!

rosewater

We enjoyed visiting the Kashan Bazaar before dinner. It was mud brick architecture from the 18th century. The domes were spectacular!

Kashan Bazaar

The incredible building made our shopping an impressive middle eastern style experience!

bazaar

Their famous Kashan pink roses were on many of the products. Every size and shape for your next tea party!  How could you say no?

In the morning we saw Tabatabaic Residence – a large house with several courtyards. There were many elegant stained glass windows. Some rose colored!

courtyard

We were surprised by the stained glass windows in the homes of Kashan. The color diffuses the hot summer sunlight and keeps rooms cooler.

windows

Everyone was looking forward to our next city of Qom. It is known for the Shrine of Fatima-al-Massumeh and center for religious study.

Hazrat-e-Masumeh Shrine

This mosque is the most conservative of any in Iran. Women must wear a chador, which completely covers her body. Nearby fabric shops are happy to help!

Fabric shop

All tourists are required to have a guide for the shrine.  We heard some history of this historic mosque, built in the late 18th century. Then were shown how men and women have different entrances to the mosque. Traditonally non-muslims are only allowed to see this mosque from the outside.

One of the hoilest cities in Iran

So the ladies were surprised when our guide was able to lead them into a side prayer room to see the interiors.  Every mirror and tile was the finest quality.

wearing chadors

Given the option to keep their new chadors or have another tourist use them, all the girls were happy to donate their fabric!!!

Most conservative mosque in Iran

minature artist

Introducing Hossein Fallahi in his workshop at the Nagsh-e-Jahan Square! Hossein is one of today’s few contempory miniaturists. This style of Persian painting dates back to the 13th century, and was influenced by the Mongol invasion. The painting is characterized by vivid colors with accents of gold.

To demonstrate miniature painting, Mr. Fallahi drew a member of our tour group, using a very fine brush made of Persian cat hair. That outline would be the beginning of a painting. Impressive!  This level of detail can only be achieved by a very fine hand and an extremely small brush!

demonstration

When we left the workshop, most of us had found a Fallahi miniature to bring home to family or friends. The Royal Square was his favorite theme. We came home with one, as did many others. Ours is a miniature of the Royal Square with Polo players and 2 mosques and a Palace – good  memories!!!

Fallahi-Miniature art

We visited Vank Cathedral, one of the first Christian churches in Isfahan. 1915 was the year of the Armenian Genoide by the Ottoman Empire. Shah Abbas settled deported Armenians in Isfahan. One of the first Christian churches was here. The construction began in 1606 and completed in 1664.

Vank Cathedral

There were 1.5 million victims of the Armenian Genocide. The murals on the bottom half of the interiors show the tortures inflicted on the Armenian martyrs by the Ottoman Empire. This is 100th anniversary of the Genocide. There is a memorial to the Genocide in the gardens outside the cathedral.

Vank Cathedral Dome

Hammam-e-Aliqoli Khan is a traditional bathhouse. It has been restored and made into a museum to display the customs and rituals.

Ali Qoli Agha Museum

Bath house

Chehel Sotun or the 19 Column Palace is a beautiful pavillion built for evening entertainment. During the Safavid Period this was a common way to for the King to have contact with his people. He would eat with them and drink with them. The reflection of the pillars gave the Palace its name.

Chehel Sotun

The interiors were covered by colorful, room size murals of Iran’s history.

Royal courtyard view

When the Shah Abbas built the Royal Square, he centralized power within that Square. He gathered the 3 main components; “the clergy” with 2 mosques in the square, “the merchants” in the Imperial Bazaar,  and “the government” – Shah himself, residing in the Ali Qapu Palace on the west edge of the grounds.

The mosque on the southside of the square was originally named the Shah’s Mosque, now is the Imam Mosque. The port of the mosque is a half-dome that measures 89 feet and is covered with mosiacs. The entrance is bound by two 171 ft. turquoise minarets.  The vaulted hall leads to the interior courtyard.

Shah Mosque – Imam

The Royal Square did not face Mecca. The architects of the mosque had to create an interior courtyard which allows for a right turn to orient the mosque to Mecca, a northeast/southeast position . The entrance faces the square, the mosque behind it faces Mecca.

turn to face Mecca

The interiors are completely covered with enamel tiles, many with the 7 color Persian design. They show the Persians poetic passion for flowers.

Imam Mosque

tiled walls

The Sheikh Loyfollah Mosque, on the east side of the square, was actually the first to be built. Shah Abbas needed a place for private meditation for the Royal Court. There are no minarets, and it’s much smaller in size.

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque

There is a recessed half-domed, tiled gateway like the Imperial Bazaar and the Imam Mosque.

Shiekh Lotfollah Mosque

However, the interiors are made of very fine materials. One unique chacteristic of the mosque is the peacock at the center dome – to see the peacock, check out the next zoomed-in photo!!!

Peacock Dome

Zoomed-in picture of the dome showing a peacock in the center. Realizing the detailed tile work that you can’t see with the naked eye is amazing!

zoomed-in peacock

To keep the royal family protected as they went from the Al Qapu Palace to the mosque,  a tunnel was made under the Royal Square.  Guards were posted at the doors and in the tunnel. The public was never allowed in the mosque until recently.

The Ali Qapu Palace is more of a gateway to the royal gardens behind it than an official palace.  The Shah built this palace for entertainment.  The 6th floor was  or portico was for viewing polo matches, military parades and other activites in the square.

Ali Qapu Palace

The best skybox in Isfahan!

Sandy in the palace skybox

John in Skybox, too!

Roof top terrace

roof top terrace

Roof top terrace pool

Terrace

The 7th floor was the music room with a very intrique ceiling, designed for acoustics. Built in the 17th century!

Music Room

Music Room dome

Imperial Bazaar is the fourth of the ….

Grand Bazaar Entrance

Shopping for Spices

spices

Imperial Bazaar

Everything!!!

Imperial Bazaar Isfahan

Bazaar

City of Gardens

John loved the gardens of Isfahan. There are wide green parks on both sides of the  Zayandeh (life-giving) River which runs through the city. To learn that the planning of these parks dates back to the 17 century is quite amazing.

Abbas Shah moved the capital of the Persian Empire to Isfahan in a effort to provide security and to be closer to the Persian Gulf, which was becoming important trade route.This river city isolated Isfahan from enemies and created an “oasis” for important trade routes for the entire world.

walkways along the river

Today the river and gardens create a green space for the all the people of Isfahan. Many fill the benches that are placed among the flowers and trees.

Scarved Sandy in the River Park

There are wonderful bridges throughout the city. The most famous and the longest is Sio-Seh Pol, meaning 33 Pier Arches. It was opened for use in 1602.

33 arches

Our tour spent 3 full days in Isfahan, and we were so glad!!! It was a beautiful, friendly place to be. The shopping, the mosques, the hammans, and palaces were the best!!!   Our favorite places were the Khaju Bridge/Dam and the grand Maidan-e-Naghsh-e-Jahan Square.

Khaju pedestrian Bridge and Dam opened in 1652

The Najhsh-e-Jahan Square is one of the largest city squares in the world. It’s an outstanding example of Iranian and Islamic architecture, a World Heritage Site.

City Square

At one time the center green space of this city square was a polo field. The King and his family sat in the viewing stand on the right side, called the Ali Qapu Palace. These polo matches (chow gan) were very popular and the King entertained at the palace during these games.

Madrasa-i-Shah Mosque

The Maidan Square is also the home of two impressive mosques, Sheikh Lotfollah and the Shah Mosque, also called the Imam Mosque (after 1997 Revolution). These mosques were covered with a special mosiac tile of 7 colors. Beautiful Arabic writing was also part of the designs of the mosques.

7 color tiles

Opposite the Imam Mosque is the entrance to the Imperial Bazaar. The two story design of the shops enclosed the entire Maidan Square. A Shoppers Paradise!!!

Grand Bazaar Entrance

Imperial Bazaar

Tea at the Grand Bazaar

Jameh Mosque

Jameh, also called the “Friday Mosque”,  is an example of Azari style architecture.  Yadz is an important center of Persian style architecture. Jameh has a tall entrance to the mosque and a very large open courtyard in the center of the mosque. Jameh is open to the entire community for Friday prayers.

The mosque is covered with Persian mosiacs and mostly blue tiles. The pair of matching minarets are the highest in Iran. The skyline at night is beautiful!

tallest minarets

Dinner was at terrace restaurant that gave us some wonderful views of the Yadz night lights! This is the Amir Chakmag Complex, in the center of Yadz.

Amir Chakhmaq Complex

Here is the spectacular view in the evening.

Water Museum is a MUST SEE in Yadz. Because of high temperatures, underground tunnels were used to bring the mountain water to the city of Yadz.

Quant System

The mountains were 20 km away from Yadz. It was an engineering feat to develop these canals or quants, as they are called. It made living in the desert possible.

one of the underground canals

The canals were gently sloping to provide water throughout the city. This canal is 60 feet under the ground at the Water Museum.

Qanat