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Yazd

Yazd is in central Iran. At one time, Yazd was an important station on the Silk Road, with historic mosques, minarets and ancient clay buildings. Marco Polo described Yazd as “a good and noble city with a great amount of trade.” The deserts have kept  Yadz isolated from invading armies, so we are very lucky that most of it’s ancient buildings have been preserved.

It’s Old Town is built entirely out of adobe and is a maze of endless alleys and very narrow streets. It all looked very brown, but it was very clean.

Yazd – narrow streets

Beautiful to see after dusk and through out the evening. Our guide’s home was Yadz and he showed us the Yazd that he loves.

night in Old Town

Yazd is known for being the center of Zoroastrin religion. They believe there is one universal god. In Zoroastrianism water and fire are agents of ritual purity. Both fire and water are considered life sustaining and are represented at the “Fire Temple”.

The Fire Temple

Zoroastrians usually pray in the presence of some form of fire (any source of light).  Fire is considered the medium through which insight and wisdom is gained. Water is considered the source of that wisdom. This eternal flame – Ataskadeh, is in a brazen pot and behind a wall of glass. It has been burning since 470 B.C.

Fire Temple

The Symbolic Birdman above the “Fire Temple” is the winged symbol of Zoroaster and named Farahr meaning “guardian angel”. His wings have three rows of feathers representing “Good Thoughts, Good Words, and Good Deeds”, the basis of Zoroastrian ethics.

Symbol of Zoroastra

The tradition of the Zoroastrians was to leave the bodies of their dead exposed to sun and birds of prey on this hill. They believed this would protect the soil from being polluted by burial of the dead, and the air to be protected from burning the bodies, The “Towers of Silence” are outside the city limits. There are two hills with circular walls built around the tops.

Towers of Silence

Best Sweets in Yazd – “Haj Khalifeh Ali Rahbar Partners” is located at the corner of the main square. Baghlava, ghotals, pashmak. Confectioneries have a long history in Yazd. Sweets are various and divine, with hidden flavors of rose-water, pistachio and almonds.

confectionary box

This store, Haj Khalifeh Ali Rahbar Partners, was wall to wall customers! You had to get a number to be served!

shopping for sweets

Most people in our tour left with packages to bring home to friends and relatives. Our guide bought enough cookies for the bus to last us for days and days…..

confectioneries

Azadi Tower

Most travelers drive past this “Freedom Tower” on their way into Tehran. Originally built in 1971, it was part of the cultural complex named the King Memorial. Several fountains and gardens are around the base and there is a museum underground. We made a photo stop here on our way to the domestic airport.

Tehran Bazaar was especially busy this Friday afternoon. Tomorrow is Father’s Day in Iran. Just like our Father’s Day, you would buy a present for fathers and grandfathers. The difference was all men were to be honored and celebrated. So you would buy presents for all the men in your life!!! Lots of presents to buy!

These two young guys were ready to celebrate “Men’s Day” and wanted Americans to take their photos!  Please!

…please take our pictures!

Would flowers would make a good present for an Iranian man? Our guide, a young man himself, thought that was good!

flowers?

A gift of nuts and dried fuits would be very welcome! Great presents already in boxes for the men tomorrow.

nuts and dried fruits

Spices and dried foods were piled high throughout the bazaar.  Wonderful colors and so fragrant!  Beautiful to see!

spices

There is no shortage of clothing at the Tehran Bazaar! Big, small, short or tall – you could find everything for everybody here!

never a shortage of clothes

Lots and lots of sandals…. With the coming of summer, everyone was in the market for new sandals. In all colors!

every color of sandals

Some special occasion dishes. Most of this bazaar is for locals and everyday needs. But there are souvenirs, too!

Iranian souvenirs

Some beautiful artwork to take home! The Iranians make many, many lovely things to bring home for friends and family.

summer residence

The White Palace – Palace of the Nation, built in 1931 and 1937, served as the Pahlavi’s Summer Residence.  Little has changed since the 1979 Revolution.

This is a 54 room, very modern building, that provided the most luxurious life style available at the time.

fine furnishings

The carpet in the Reception Hall is said to be one of the largest carpets ever woven in Iran, 143 sq. metres.

White Palace reception

The residence was often used to entertain foreign diplomats for State Dinners. This dining room carpet matched the reception hall. 

The lower level of the White Palace is the Nation’s Art Museum. There is a double spiral staircase with walls made of stainless steel. The museum is a collection from 20th century Iranian artists along with a Modigilani, a Picasso, an Andy Warhol valued at $100s of millions.

staircase

Outside the Palace steps are bronze boots. It’s all that’s left of Mohammed Reza Shah’s statue that stood here before the Revolution.

statue

Entrance

This park and palace complex was first developed by the Qajar monarches and royal family in the 19th century. After the 1979 Revolution it became a museum.

Today there are 18 large and small palaces, each with it’s own architecture and technique. The compounds were expanded when Reza Shah lived here in the 1920’s and his son, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi moved here with his family in the 1970’s.

map of the complex

The compound is north of the city. It sits on 257 acres of spectacular parkland at the foothills of the Alborz Mountains.

cool, green park

100s of cypress  and aspen tress provide shade to the grounds and beautiful flower gardens decorate  the palaces.

walking through trees

The Green Palace is a classical-looking building from the end of the Qajar era. It is named for the facade of green marble from Isfahan.

obviously American tourists

Sandy’s first request for a photo with a lovely Iranian lady. Iranians were very friendly to our group. Taking lots of photos!

American and Iranian tourists

The Pahlavis Dynasty made major renovations in the 1930s, adding mirror marquetry everywhere. One hallway became know as the Mirror Hall.

inside Green Palace

The bedroom walls and ceilings were covered with mirrors, too!

Green Palace – Bed Chamber

The Shah’s office, sitting areas and dining room were filled with fine European furnishings.

Green Palace – Office

The Green Palace was often used for State Dinners enteraining foreign diplomats from all over the world.

Green Palace Dining Room

All meals were prepared in a seperate Culinary Building. It was filled with all the most up-to-date kitchen equipment.

food prep

The display was complete with faux food and life-sized chefs. Easy to imagine how the preparations for 100’s could be completed here, then rushed to the Palace.

ovens

Golestan Palace Entry

The oldest of the historic monuments in Tehran, the Golestan Palace, is the result of 400 years of construction and renovation. After Nasser-ol-Din’s visit to Europe in 1865, he wanted to create a palace better than Versailles, the Louvre, Peterhof or Windsor.

A spectacular terrace was made by order of Shah Qajar in 1806.

Terrace

The throne that exists  today is in the middle of that terrace. It is made of famous yellow marble from Yadz province. The throne was made of  sixty-five pieces of this beautiful colored marble.

Throne

The throne that exists  today is in the middle of that terrace. It is made of famous yellow marble from Yadz province. The throne was made of  sixty-five pieces of this beautiful colored marble.

The Hall of Mirror is the most famous of the Palace Halls. This relatively small hallway has extraordinary mirror work.

Hall of Mirrors

Not as long a hallway, but is more spectacular than Versaille’s Hall of Mirrors.

Hall of Mirrors

During the Pahlavi era, 1925-1979, the Palace was used for formal royal receptions. The most important ceremonies were the coronation of Reza Kalm 1925 and coronation of his son, the former Shah of Iran in 1941, who was deposed in 1979.

Entrance to the Hall of Brillance

Golestan means “Rose Garden”. The Palace is built around a garden featuring pools and planted areas with beds of roses.

Rose Garden

The Palace and Gardens are currently under major renovations. Few rooms are open to the public, but they are worth a visit.

artisans work on renovations

More beautiful tile work….

tiles

rose garden tiles

tiles work

clean and green

We are lucky to be among the few Americans who have visited Iran during the past 5 years! With nuclear negotiations making headlines  every day, what would we see in this country? Beautiful palaces, mosques and  tree lined boulevards. 6 cities that were clean and green, with people who loved Americans.

The Houston World Affairs Council offered an educational trip to Iran, visiting major cities and historical sights. Our itinerary was Tehran, Yazd, Isfahan, Kashan, Ohm, Shiraz, Persepolis and Tehran. 14 curious travelers joined us on 5 bustrips and 3 domestic flights to see this mysterious country.

waterways

There was a shady green park across from our hotel. After a full day of travel,  the exercise was welcomed. So we walked and we walked.

pedestrian walkways

All these trees and parks were watered with irrigation regulated throughout the city. There were beautiful fountains were found throughout the city. From the center of traffic round-abouts to the numerous city parks.

fountains

Some of the water was in canals that ran through the city. The benches along these waterways were full of people enjoying the outdoors.

waterways

Everyone loved seeing the “countdown

traffic signals

On the sidewalks there were 2 of these donation boxes for the “poor” in each block. It kept you very aware of helping people in need.

A MUST – SEE for all visitors to Iran is the Carpet Museum or at the very least, a store that demonstrates how Persian rugs are made. Rugs are very important to Iranian art and culture. Carpet weaving goes back to 5th century B.C. The traditional Persian carpet is tied with a single looping knot which allows for a finer quality of work. Today, Iran is the largest producer and exporter of handmade carpets.

Persian rug

Visit to the Contemporary Arts Museum in Tehran

John as a piece of art

An Iranian with connections in Texas – his brother is a professor at UT Austin.  He was working at the museum gift shop!!! He loves America!

Iranian who loves Texas!

All women wore scarves to respect an Islamic tradition. It wasn’t hard to do. There were millions of scarves  – in every color and every design.

Iranians loved posing for American photographs

Agha Bororz Restaurant – our first lunch in Tehran

first lunch in Iran

There was a real effort for us to try a variety of Iranian culinary dishes… but we ate a lot of kebobs. Kebobs for lunch, kebobs for dinner.

Hookas

Iranian water pipes

Fine Wine in Cappadocia

Volcanic mineral-rich soil makes this Turkey’s prime grape-growing region and supports many productive wineries.

Cappadocia is one of the world’s oldest wine industries stretching back to the Hittites. Archaelogical evidence proves                                                                                   that winemaking dates back to 1800 B.C. Classifications were created and wine was exported to Assyria and Sumeria.

Kocabag vineyards

Kocabag is considered a boutique local label. This is a family owned wine producer. In 1986, the first bottle of wine                                                                                       was available on the market . In today’s wine sector, Kopcabag is considered one of the top 5 wineries in Turkey.  Now                                                                           more than 700,000 bottles are produced each year. Some are now available on the market in USA. 

Aantolian Grape

Cappadocia is actually a region not a city. Our hotel, The Fresco Cave Suites and Mansions, is in the ancient district                                                                                     of Konaklari or Temenni Hill. The town is Urgup in Neveshir. Sounds complicated…  but not if you’re from Turkey!

Cave hotel

There are 17 cave-rooms at the Fresco. Each features original frecoes dating back to the 19th century of the Ottoman                                                                                   period. Ours’ was the Big Arch Cave Suite, which consists of magnificent arches and a cave bathroom. Unique patterns                                                                           on are formed by the cooling down of volcanic ash that were layered, creating swirls  like a painting by a master painter.

Fresco wall in our suite

The terraces of the Fresco provide beautiful views of Erciyes Mountain in the distance.  Erciyes, the tallest volcano in the                                                                       region, was one of three ancient volcanos that erupted 9 – 3 million years ago. Today it is always covered with snow.

Fresco Hotel

“The Museum” is a premier hotel in Cappadocia. We were not able to get a room.  If you can – book ahead!  It’s worth it!

The Museum

Museum Hotel’s Terrace and pool

cave dwelling in Cappadocia

The first settlements were from the Roman times. Villagers carved cave-homes from the soft volcanic deposits.

Cappadocia became a religious refuge during the early days of Christianity. By the 4th century Christians were fleeing

persecution from Rome and later from Muslims. Monastic communities excavated many cave chapels and churches.

cave-homes in volcanic rock

To escape persecution, first from the Romans and then the Muslims, they built underground cities which housed up to

10,000 people. The largest was 7 levels deep with enough food storage for 2 months.

Underground cities

These underground cities were surprisingly complex. Access to water wells, kitchens, veritical air ducts for ventilation,

a section for animals. Goreme Open-Air Museum, World Heritage Site, has the best collection from the 11th century.

underground cities

complex design of undergound

Located in south central Turkey, Cappadocia is an hour flight from Istanbul.  This unique landscape is worth the trip!

Volcanic eruptions created these surreal rock formations. The lava flowed to form “tuff-rock” which thousand of years

of rain and wind erosion sculpted into curvy cliff faces and pointy conical formations, know locally as “fairy chimneys.”

fairy chimneys

Ballooning is big business in the region. Floating high above this other-worldly landscape is an incredible sight!

Your hotel pick-up is 4:30am. Free coffee included…  Up to 100 balloons can be in the air on any morning!

hot-air balloons over Cappadocia

This was Sandy’s first hot-air balloon trip and John’s second. Both were really happy to be taking this trip!

pre-flight photo

There were 20 people in our basket including the pilot. All cameras were clicking. You wanted to catch everything!

Large basket for 20 photographers

Balloon rides are one hour long and early in the morning because of the temperature and wind. We loved every minute!

best way to see the region

We had a soft landing in a field of flowers! Our “chase team” met us with a bottle of champagne to celebrate our great adventure!

Champagne Toast

Basilica Cistern

500 feet from the Hagia Sophia is the Basilica Cistern. This impressive sight has been used in the

filming of “From Russia with Love” and “Inferno” by Dan Brown (of the DaVinci Code).

This huge underground Roman water source is held up with 336 marble columns and can store

100,000 tons of water. It was built in the 4th century using recycled columns from Roman buildings.

Cistern

The 1963 James Bond movie referred to the cistern as located under the Russian Consulate,

but it is no where near it in real life.

John with our guide

The book, INFERNO, is popular enough in Istanbul for a special tour by FEST Travel  called

“In Search of Dan Brown’s Historic Peninsula.”

Medusa Head in Cistern

Roof Top Terraces and boutique hotels are most popular in old town of Istanbul.

Here is The Four Seasons in Sultanahmet’s A’Ya Lounge.

4 Season Rooftop