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Hagia Sophia

The Hagia Sophia was built in 537 as a Greek Orthodox, Byzantine Church.

From 1455 to 1931 it was converted to an Imperial Mosque and opened as a museum in 1935.

It’s full name in Greek is Shrine of the Holy Wisdom of God.

Hagia Sophia was beautifully decorated with mosaics in the centuries during the Byzantine period.

These mosaics depicted the Virgin Mary, Jesus, saints, emperors and empresses.

During the Ottoman occupation in 1453, mosaics were whitewashed or plastered when the Hagia Sophia was used as a mosque.

Many mosaics were removed and shipped to Venice. The earthquake of 1894 also destroyed some of the beautiful mosaics.

Virgin Mary with Christ Child

Shopping is part of your visit to Istanbul!  Rugs, gold jewelry, ceramics and spices! At the bazaars and everywhere on the streets.

Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar had changed the most from our trip ten years ago. Today it’s light and clean, with only standard souvenirs.

Years ago it was a dark, mysterious place, filled with all things oriental. It was amazing! We wanted to buy everything we saw!

Grand Bazaar Istanbul

Today there are rugs, scarves, and every kind of souvenir. But we missed the dark corners, the intrique, and the special finds of the old days!

Gold Jewelry

Sultanahmet Blue Mosque

Built by Sultan Ahmet I from 1609 to 1616, it is still used as a Muslim Mosque today. It is closed 5 times a day for ezan, the daily prayers.  The exact time of ezan changes each day due to the rotation around the sun. Islamic prayer times are not set by clocks but traditionally set according to the movement of the sun. Dawn, before the sun appears; at midday; afternoon; at dusk; when last light of day has disappeared.

The Blue Mosque was named because of the 20,000 Iznik blue tiles surrounding the walls of the interior.  This mosque was designed by Mimar Sinan and was his masterpiece, one of the highest achievements of Islamic architecture. It’s minarettes and cascading domes dominate the skyline of Istanbul.

This close-up of the dome shows the Arabic writing of Islamic prayers and the traditonal blue designs of the Iznik tiles.

Blue Mosque Dome

John and Tuncay reunited in 2015

2002 was our first visit to Istanbul with friends from Paris, Meri-Katherine and John Peed. Purchasing some Turkman rugs was on our agenda. When visiting the nearby Blue Mosque we ran across the rug store, Istanblue. The owner, Tuncay Gunc, was good enough to sell 4 rugs that day! He told us his story of wishing his son would go to college and not have to sell rugs for a living.

Today, 13 years later, Tuncay was amazed to find that John remembered that story. We were amazed that the story had such a happy ending!  Tungay’s son is graduating  with a Masters Degree in Architecture from Harvard University on May 28, 2015!!! The proud Dad is flying to his graduation in Boston!

We searched the Hippodrome area near the Blue  Mosque,  looking for the shop that we remembered from 2002 – something with a second floor, someplace that sold rugs. When John saw the name “Istanblue” he knew we had found that shop!!! A great surprise!!!

Memories from 2002

Tuncay gave a tour of the old shop with a new product focus – easy tourist products, no rugs. Mostly scarves and ceramics. We had great fun shopping with his help, of course! Sandy was in “scarf heaven” and John was in tourist shopping “mode”. We walked away with bags full.

Sandy was in “Scarf Heaven”

Dolmabahce Palace Entrance

The Dolmabahce Palace is one of the most glamorous palaces in the world.  It’s a blend of European architectural styles that became a symbol of Ottoman modernization. Commissioned by the Sultan Abdulmecid in 1843, it was completed in 1856.

Here’s John & Sandy greeting Ambassadors arriving on the Bosphorous.

John & Sandy greeting Ambassadors on the Bosphorous

This was our favorite place in Istanbul.  Dolmabahce means filled-in garden. It’s very beautiful outside and inside!!!

Dolmabahce Palace – View from Bosphorous

Even in the 1850’s they had gated communities! Here is the entrance gate that Ambassadors from countries all over the world passed through.

Entrance gate

The Ambassador’s Hall is where guests would first wait to be received.

Ambassador’s Hall

The staircase is made of Baccarat crystal, brass, and mahogany. The Palace has the largest collection of Baccarat in the world.

Crystal Stairs

Guests would be taken from the Ambassador’s Hall to the Reception Chamber though this beautiful passageway.

Passage Hall

The designers of the Paris Opera, Sechan and Gadre, were brought to Istanbul to do the interiors of the Palace.  These are the original decorations, furniture, silk carpets and curtains.

Ambassador Reception Chamber

The Ballroom is 2,000 square meters with a huge silk and wool Hereke Carpet.

Ballroom

A 4.5 ton chandelier hangs from the 36 meter high dome. One of the largest in the world.

Ceremonial Hall Chandelier

A smaller but more colorful chandelier was one of the many chandeliers in the palace.

Colorful Chandelier

The Harem contained the private rooms for the Sultan and his family, including his mother, wives and favorites, concubines and children.

Sultan’s Chamber in Harem

Ataturk spent the last days of his life in the Palace as his health deteriorated. He died on November 10, 1938.

Ataturk’s Bedroom

Hawaii, Bali, Singapore, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Maldives, & Morocco.

Hawaii, Maui & Oahu

Ubud, Bali

Kathmandu, Nepal

Mt. Everest, Nepal

Sri Lanka

Kurumba, Maldives

Marrakech, Morocco

Rick’s Cafe, Casablanca, Morocco

Casablanca

Our last evening in Morocco was spent in Casablanca at Rick’s Cafe, the mythical saloon from the movie classic “Casablanca” staring Ingrid Bergman and Humphey Bogart.

Rick’s Cafe is set in an old courtyard mansion built against the walls of the Old Medina.

We arrived about 8:30 in the evening so the lighting and shadows on the front balcony, the entrace through heavy wooden and glass doors with palms on each side, and the greeting of the tuxedoed doorman made us feel we were in for a memorable evening.

Rick’s Cafe entrance at night

Inside the piano bar and restaurant the legend of Rick’s Cafe in Casablance lives on.

This year is the 10th year anniversary of the 2004 opening of Rick’s Cafe.

10th Anniversary Poster

Rick’s Cafe, the mythical saloon from the 1942 film “Casablanca” has finally been transformed from a Hollywood set captured on celluloid film to a real Rick’s Cafe in Casablanca thanks to the imagination and determination of an former American diplomat to Morocco, Kathy Kriger.

Kathy fills the role of Rick.  She is present and oversees the nightly hustle and bustle in the restauant and piano bar.

Kathy Kringer as Rick

We were fortunate to meet her.  Kathy is a gracious hostess and spent time telling us how she recreated Rick’s Cafe.

She also gave us permission to use the professional photos.  They are courtesy of The Usual Suspects S.A./Rick’s Cafe.

Please enjoy the photo journey that gives you the feeling as though you are in the film.

Sandy with Rick’s Cafe owner Kathy

Kathy worked with an architect and designer to recreate Rick’s.  It took two years to construct her dream.

The Grand Opening was February 29, 2004 to coincide with the Academy Awards 61 years after Casablanca won Best Picture.

It is s filled with architectural and decorative details reminiscent of the film: curved arches, a sculpted bar, balconies, balustrades as well as dramatic beaded and stenciled brass lighting and plants that cast luminous shadows on white walls.

Once you walk in you feel as though you are in the film.

Rick’s Cafe arches and balconies

Great attention to detail was taken to recreate the new Rick’s.  Even the inlaid floor matches.

Rick’s Cafe Downstairs

The glass beaded lamps cast ambient light on the carved plaster walls, Moroccan arched doorways, and windows.

Rick’s Cafe table

The centerpoint of piano bar in the downstairs courtyard is this carved palm tree bar.

Rick’s Cafe Bar close up

There is an authenic 1930’s Pleyel piano.

As you might suspect “As Time Goes By” is a frequest request to the in house pianist Issam Chabaa.

As in the movie, the music is a major part of any evening at Rick’s.

Authenic 1930’s Pleyel piano

Upstairs there is even a roulette wheel which was a featured set for several gambling scenes.

Rick’s Cafe roulette wheel

There is an extra touch of nostalgia with the continuous playing of the original Casablanca in black and white.

We had good timing as we saw a scene of Ilsa and Sam at the Pleyel piano in the bar at Rick’s Cafe.

Casablance playing upstairs at Rick’s

There is a good view of the piano bar from the upstairs balcony.

Balcony view of piano bar at Rick’s

Upstairs at Rick’s is where the restaurant is located and most full meals are served.

It has the same design and feel as the piano bar below with Moroccan columns, archways, and carved wooden screens.

Sandy upstairs at Rick’s

Since we were on our way to the airport for our flight home, we did not have time for full dinner.

Instead we headed straight to that famous bar to order an appetizer and a drink.

Sandy toasting Rick’s Cafe

John at Rick’s bar

Downstairs in the piano bar area the light are turned down low in the evening.

With beaded lamps, brass stenciled Moroccan chandiers, and palms the shadows on the walls are just incredible.

All of these details give you the ambience the drama as the film.

You begin to think, ‘Gee, maybe this was really here in 1942.’

To learn and see more of how the Legend Lives On, click Rick’s Cafe.

Kasbah Tamadot

Richard Branson’s parents first saw what is now Kasbah Tamadot when they were hot air ballooning over it in Morocco.

They met the owner who was an antique dealer and saw its potential.  They told Richard that unless he bought it and turned it into the world’s most beautiful hotel, they would disown him.  Richard paid about $1.5 million for the riad and its antiques.  Since then millions more have been invested in improving the property to what is is today.

Our guide drove us about 45 miles southeast of Marrakech into the snow capped Atlas Mountains to Tamadot for our reservation for lunch.

Outside are mud and brick walls as with other riads.

To enter we had to go through a security check with a guard to verify our names were on the expected guest list.

Once we entered the entrance courtyard we knew this was very special.

Tamadot entrance courtyard

We were impressed by the beautiful courtyard and its lush landscaping with flowering bouganvillas.

The courtyard contained statues, sculptures, carved wood and stone around the doors and windows.

The entrance door was equally impressive.

Sandy at Tamadot front door

We were warmly met at the reception desk.

Then we were escorted through cactus gardens and landscaped pathways past an outdoor pool to the poolside terrace for lunch.

Cactus garden at Tamadot

Pathway to poolside terrace

Outdoor fountain and pool at Tamadot

Poolside covered dining

Poolside outdoor terrace

Sandy at poolside terrace

The view from the terrace offers a sharp contract to the green and lush landscaping throughout Tamadot.

The terrace overlooks a wide scrub brush and sepia colored valley with brown mud brick villages dotting the opposite mountains.

There is a rushing river several hundreds of feet below.

The snow capped Atlas Mountains are in the background.

View from poolside terreace

Snow capped Atlas Mountains

We had a wonderful lunch of tagine cooked lamb and chicken each with its own special compliment of olives, citrus fruits, vegetables and spices.  And of course, some great Moroccan wine from a nearby vineyard.

Tamadot tagine cooked lunch on poolside terrace

After lunch we began our tour of Tamadot with the outdoor infinity swimming pool.

Infinity pool at Tamadot

We continued to the indoor swimming pool.

Tamadot indoor pool

And onto one of the courtyards with a reflecting pool filled with rose petals.

Tamadot Reflecting Pool with red and white rose petals

There are numerous courtyards, nooks, crannies, roof top terraces, private outdoor dining, and private pools offering outstanding vistas.

Rooftop private pools, dining, and more.

Tamadot courtryard

Tamadot courtyard

There is even a game room with a pool table and an adjoining library to read or to meet friends for conversation.

Library and game room at Tamadot

Tamadot has 27 rooms ranging in size from single rooms to Berber tents to three bedroom villas with their own private terrace, outdoor dining, and swimming pool.  Each room is lavishly decorated in its own color scheme and style.

Tamadot deluxe room

Tamadot deluxe room

Tamadot deluxe room

Tamadot Berber Tent

Tamadot has a full range of saunas, athletic facilities, tennis courts, mule and camel rides (which we passed on).

Tamadot mule rides

At dusk Tamadot becomes even more romantic and mystical with all the landscape lighting and resulting shadows.

Tamadot entrance at dusk

Since there are no TVs at Tamadot, they offer outdoor cinema.  Tonight’s movie was Casablanca.

Tamadot Outdoor Cinema showing Casablanca

Kasbah Tamadot is truly a beautiful and unique boutique hotel.  If you get to Marrakech, go there, even if just for lunch and a chance to tour the grounds.  Be sure to call for reservations to get your name on the security guest list.

Tonight we drive to Casablanca to go to Rick’s America Cafe.  Stay tuned.

Colorful Camels

Today we ventured out of the of the center of the city to visit parks, gardens, and museums.

With the arrival of the French in the early 20th century Marrakech outgrew the city walls of the Medina.

The French built a new modern city of broad avenues, villas, and parks.

Avenue Mohammed V is a wide beautifully landscaped avenue named after Morocco’s first king.

It is the spine that connects the old and new parts of the city.

Avenue Mohammed V

It doesn’t take much time to get out of town to the wide open spaces where tourists go to ride camels and jeeps in the desert.

We passed on the camel and jeep rides to enjoy a drive through the “Beverly Hills” of Morocco.

Hertz Camel Rental

One moment we were in a desolate desert, the next moment we found how a lot of money can transform the desert into a real oasis on the outskirts of northern Marrakech.

La Palmeraire is the “Beverly Hills” of Morocco and has over 150,000 palm trees with luxurious villas, hotels, and golf courses.

La Palmerie Resort

The Majorelle Gardens are the most beautiful in Marrakech.

In 1924 French painter, Jacques Majorelle bought the land around his art studio and began developing a botanical sanctuary.  The gardens became a popular attraction when opened to the public.

The gardens fell into disrepair after Majorelle’s death.

In 1980 French fashion designer Yves Saint-Laurent completely restored the gardens.

John & Sandy at Majorelle Gardens

Majorelle Blue is a striking shade of cobalt blue used throughout the gardens.

The former painting studio, now a museum, is painted in this color.

Museum of Muslim Art at Majorelle Gardens

You walk on winding paths of arid cactus gardens with exotic species from around the world.

Enjoy seeing the exotic cactus at each turn in your path.

Majorelle cactus

Majorelle Cactus Gardens

Majorelle unusual cactus

Majorelle Cactus and Palm Groves

The garden transforms as it goes from an arid desert cactus display to a display of tropical plants.

Bananas in bloom

The tropical part of the garden continues with a towering forest of bamboo.

Sandy in bamboo forest

Sandy in bamboo forest

There are also pools, fountains, and ponds with floating water lillies.

Pond in bamboo forest

Sandy at Majorelle gardens

Water lillies at Majorelle Garden

Our next stop was to see the gardens at the La Mamounia hotel.

La Mamounia is the world famous, glamourous hotel outside the Medina walls in Marrakech.

The Crown Prince Moulay Mamoun established the gardens on land given to him by his father, the sultan, as a wedding present.  The gardens are designed on a traditional axis style with walkways, flower beds, orange and olive groves, and palm trees.

Anyone can enjoy the gardens by having lunch at the pool side restaurant or take afternoon tea at the La Menzeh.

Both overlook the spendor of these massive gardens.

Sandy on olive walkway at La Mamounia Gardens

Sandy in orange grove

Mamounia Gardens

Mamounia flowers

Mamounia blooms

Mamounia bouganvillia

The Museum of Marrakech is in the center of the Medina.  Origianlly the museum was hte Dar Menebhi Palace buit in the end of the 12th century.  The courtyards have beautiful mosiac floors, intracate tile work and carvings.

Museum of Moroccan Arts

The atrium has been covered with glass and has a massive Moroccan chandelier,

Sandy with chandelier

Ali Ben Youssef Madrasa is one of Marrakeck’s most significant monuments.  It was built by a sultan in the in 1565.  After the sultan, the building was converted to a madrasa or theological school housing 900 students.  The admission requirement was to know the Koran by memory.  It was a center of theological education from the 14th century to 1962.

Ali Ben Yossef Madrasa

Sandy is in one of the 130 dorm rooms that overlooks one of the courtyards.

Sandy in Yossef Madrasa dorm room

The Koutoubia Mosque was built in the 12th century.  Its minaret is Marrakech’s pre-eminent monument which towers over all other buildings.

Sandy at Koutoubia Mosque

Koutoubia Mosque at dusk

That evening we went to combination restaurant and dinner club called Jal Mahal.

We sat upstairs in the bar area, had a great Moroccan meal, and were entertained by singers, jazz players, and a troupe of belly dancers.

As you have seen before entertainers like to get someone in the audience to perform with them.

Tonight their target was John.

As you can see, they are very professional as their eyes are always on the camera for a good photo.

Belly dancer approaching John

Belly dancer asking John to dance

After lots of shouts of encouragement from the other diners, John was pursuaded to get up and dance.

He was determined not to be embarassed or shown up.

When the belly dancer went low, John went low.

Dance move #1: Arms low

When the belly dancer went high, John went high.

Dance move #2: Arms high

When the belly dancer went shimmy, shimmy, shimmy.

John went shimmy, shimmy, shimmy.

Dance Move #3: Shimmy, shimmy, shimmy

As crowd was cheering and chanting, “He’s a professional”,

the older, more mature leader of the troupe came over to get John to dance with her.

John dancing with lead performer

Sandy was prepared by now and got their dancing captured in a YouTube video which can be seem by clicking here.

Cobra close up

Snake charmers, live musicians and story tellers – it’s like something out of the 1001 Nights.

That is found at Jamaa el Fna, the main square and market place in medina quarter or old city in Marrakech.

Unesco declared the Jamaa el-Fna a ‘Masterpiece of World Heritage’ in 2001.

During the day it is predominantly occupied by orange juice sellers, men with monkeys, water sellers in colorful costumes with traditional leather water-bags and brass cups, and snake charmers will pose for photographs for tourists.

El Fna orange juice stand

El Fna monkeys

Water sellers roam the square in colorful costumes and tasseled hats, ringing copper bells. The brass cups are for Muslims while the white metal cups are for other religions.

Water seller

Snake charmers bewitch their cobras with flutes, and drape the snakes over tourists, and kiss the cobras.

Snake charmer

El Fna snake charmer

Kissing Cobras

Tooth pullers wielding fearsome pliers, offer to pluck the pain from out of the heads of toothache sufferers, trays of extracted molars attesting to their skill.  These self-proclaimed dentists sell both teeth and dentures to the poor with bad teeth.

El Fna tooth seller

Medicine men have compounds of ground roots, dried herbs, animal parts that are used as natural remedies for everything from colds to warding off the evil eye.

El Fna Medicine men

There are acrobatic feats where young men perform cartwheels, somersaults, and tottering human pyramids to entertain the crowd and earn a few coins.

El Fna acrobats

There are women with piping bags full of henna paste, ready to paint hands, feet or arms with “tattoos” that will last up to three months.

El Fna henna women

As dusk falls, the square becomes a huge open-air dining area, packed with stalls lit by gas lanterns, and the air is filled with wonderful smells and plumes of cooking smoke spiralling up into the night.  Makeshift tables, chairs, and canopies are set up everywhere. The people are warm, friendly, and provide a night market entertainment.

El Fna market at night

El Fna night food seller

El Fna at night

El Fna night food stand

El Fna food seller

The square gradually fills until it becomes a whole carnival of storytellers, acrobats, musicians and entertainers.

Sandy with Guimba player

Marrakech Guimbi player

Berber dancers

El Fna fortune teller

El Fna should be visited both during the day and at night to experience how it changes during the day.  Going at night allows you to the experience hustle and bustle of the market and immerse yourself in Moroccan culture. 

The market stalls and street entertainers provide something for everybody.

 For the best view, have a drink on the terrace of Café Glacier.

Cafe Glacier